In the sit-down sector are Beijing's modern restos. It's shameful not to have Peking duck in, well, Peking; more so than hopping th bandwagon, which wheeled me to the much-buzzed Dadong Kaoya restaurant.

The plump duck with crisp skin was unremarkable, but completely transformed by a humble flour crepe, dark sauce and spring onion. Gamey, sweet and salty with an savory twang, these strong flavors were hugged by the comforting starch of the plain crepe.

This was all so good, I though while loosening the belt, that it really can't be good for me at all. Noodles and dumplings with more than five spices later, the unattended yogurt cart on the street looked like a pretty good detox fix. It was a heavenly tangy and sweet custard, its appeal heightened by milkman nostalgia that the recycled, daily-delivered clay pots of yogurt evoked.

Give the inattentive cart attendant ¥2 (C$0.36), punch a straw through the retro paper lid rubber-banded to the pot, and slurp euphorically in the upright position. This is not take-away, it is strictly take-your-time. The yogurt man collects the emptied pots, piled high on the left, and replenishes the cart with a batch of cold, freshly filled ones.

If China is the wonderful yogurt man or Mr. Milkman in a twisted, fetishistic way, I say fill me up, Mister. I'll just keep coming back for more.

Jamie Penaloza's Tastegasm Hit List:

Peking Roast Duck

Skip Dadong Kaoya, a total buzzkill My next targets areDuck de Chine (1949 The Hidden City, Courtyard 4, Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang district) and the Tony Bourdain-approved Li Qun (11 Beixiangfen Hutong, Zhengyi Lu Nankou, Chongwen district)

Dumplings

Niuge Jiaozi (85 Nanheyan Dajie, Dongcheng district). Fresh, made-to-order and delicious.

Buns

You're on your own here. Spot the old folks who appear to be lining up in front of a solid wall, and you've struck gold. Mine was across the streets from the popular Nanluoguxiang shopping alley (called hutongs), Dongcheg district.

Noodles

Noodle Loft/Mianku (20 Xidawang Lu, Chaoyang district): old-world, hand-pulled noodles in an airy modern setting.