Add your fresh or dried and soaked beans to a pan of water with the bay
leaf, squashed tomato and potato – this will help to flavour the beans
and soften their skins. Cook until tender – check by tasting. They must
be soft. Dried beans can take up to an hour, but check fresh ones after
25 minutes. Drain (reserving about half a glass of the cooking water),
and discard the bay leaf, tomato and potato. Now season with salt,
pepper and a splash of oil.
While the beans are cooking, make your soffrito. Heat a good splash of
olive oil in a saucepan and add the chopped pancetta or bacon, onions,
carrots, celery, fennel, garlic and the finely sliced basil stalks.
Sweat very slowly on a low heat, with the lid just ajar, for around 15
to 20 minutes until soft, but not brown. Add the tomatoes, courgettes
and red wine and simmer gently for 15 minutes.
Now add the chard or spinach, stock and beans. Put the dried pasta into
a polythene bag, squeeze all the air out and tie the end up. Bash
gently with a rolling pin to break the pasta into pieces. Snip the end
off the bag and empty the contents into the soup. Stir and continue to
simmer until the pasta is cooked.
If you think the soup is looking too thick, add a little more stock or
some of the reserved cooking water to thin it down a bit. Then taste
and season with salt and pepper. Serve sprinkled with the torn-up basil
leaves and with some extra virgin olive oil drizzled over the top. Put
a block of Parmesan and a grater on the table for everyone to help
themselves. Heaven!