1 In a large pan bring your chicken stock to a simmer and add your morels.
2 Heat a high-sided thick-bottomed saucepan on a medium heat, pour in a
good splash of oil and add the onion, chilli, garlic, fennel, celery and the
parsley stalks. Cook gently for 10 minutes making sure it doesn't colour too
much. Add the rice and turn up the heat. Stir for a minute or so, then stir in
the wine and allow it to bubble and cook away while you’re stirring it. Add the
tin of tomatoes, keep stirring and, after a minute, add a ladle at a time of the
stock. (Risotto is all about the stirring, you never want to add so much liquid
that its soupy – you want a thick texture to cause the starch to come out of the
rice and make it creamy.) Stir in, ladle, stir in, ladle and stir, getting into
all the corners. Risotto usually takes about 18 minutes. When it has been
cooking for about 14 minutes, put in the mussels and clams, and stir every
minute until the clams and mussels have opened and the rice has aborbed all the
liquid and flavour. When the rice is cooked, add more chicken stock or a little
water to make it a little more delicate and oozy and lovely. Roughly chop any
remaning morels and add them to the risotto. Correct the seasoning if needed,
squeeze in lemon juice and serve scattered with parsley, fennel tops and
parmesan, if using.