This risotto is something very special. You will need a mixture of seafood – try
red mullet, monkfish, bream, John Dory, cod, mussels, clams, prawns and a little
sliced squid. You can either use bought fish stock to make this risotto or you
can have a go at making your own, as I do here. (Ask your fishmonger for the
fish heads to use in the stock – these usually go into the bin, so you shouldn’t
be charged for them). I’m going to make it in a slightly different way to the
normal method, where I would fillet the fish before adding the bones and
fish-heads to the stock, so bear with me!
Put the exact amount of water
into a large pan with the carrots, tomatoes, bay leaf and whole parsley sprig
and bring to the boil, adding your whole fish but not your shellfish. Simmer for
10 minutes, then remove each fish from the pan and flake the flesh away from the
bones. (If you have a cod head, try to remove the cheeks as they’re the best
bit!) Put the meat on a plate to one side; return any bones to the stock to
simmer for another 15 minutes max, skimming any froth off the surface every so
often. Meanwhile start your basic risotto, adding the fennel, fennel seeds,
chilli and saffron to the pan at Stage 1.
Pass the stock through a
colander into another pan and throw away the vegetables and bones. Add most of
the fish stock to your risotto, keeping a little to finish the dish, and when
the rice is nearly cooked towards the end of Stage 3, add your flaked fish and
shellfish. After 3 or 4 minutes the shellfish will have opened (discard any that
remain closed); then remove from the heat.
As you’re not supposed to mix
cheese and fish in pasta or risotto dishes we’re not going to finish it with
Parmesan. Instead, at Stage 4, when you add the butter, check the seasoning,
drizzle with a lug of extra virgin olive oil and squeeze over the lemon juice.
To serve, divide the risotto between your plates, and spoon over the remaining
stock. Drizzle with some more extra virgin olive oil and sprinkle with the
remaining parsley and the reserved fennel tops.